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The road to Sorrento

Thursday, July 30, 2015

After breakfast we checked out and headed to the train station. We had looked at tickets on the fast ticket machine last night but decided to just get the tickets today. After clicking through the fast ticket machine a few times we found out that return tickets were basically the same as two singles. The options to Naples were a fast train that took an hour but cost 45 Euros each, a medium train that took two hours for 25 Euros but had a seat reservation or a really slow two and a half hour train for 12 Euros but no seat reservation. We decided on the middle train. Arriving in Naples we made our way downstairs to the Circumvesuvian train line buying tickets for just 3.60 Euros each. The train to Sorrento was initially very busy meaning we had to stand but quickly emptied after the first couple of stops.

We're staying in an apartment block just off the main road into town. After a bit of a rest from the journey we headed into town to get some dinner and after hasd a walk around and took some pictures of the view across the bay. It's very warm here too so we were quite relieved when we got back to our nicely chilled air conditioned room. Apparently we get breakfast in the morning, not sure how that works yet...

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Last day in Rome

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

We had a slightly later start today, only just making it down for breakfast. We decided to catch the B line train over to the Vittorio Emanuele monument, stopping at Colesseo and walking the rest of the way. The monument is very grand is home to a couple of museums and the tomb of the unknown soldier. You can climb up part of the way for free, and able to admire the views of the surrounding landscape including colesseo which can't be seen from the other viewpoints we've visited (castle St Angelo, St Peter's basilica). You can also get the elevator to the very top for 7 Euros, so we did. 

The view from the top was fantastic! You could see a lot further at the top. It was very hot in the sun but there was some shade cast at either end of the viewing platform and a welcome breeze, so we sat and cooled down for a while. One of the sights we saw was one that looked a little like the colesseum - half a circle in diameter and made up of large archways. According to the map, it was the Teatro Marcello and was surrounded by a number of ancient columns, so we decided to make that our next stop. We made our way towards it, stopping to take some pictures and for some gelato en route.

The way to the Teatro building took us along some of the backstreets of Rome, winding in amongst the houses. When we got there, we wandered round. Some of the structure appears to have been replaced which highlights how worn the older stone is. It was very impressive surrounded by some complete and some broken columns and bits of ruin.

From there, we wandered towards and across the river, passing through isola (the island) on the way. There appeared to be various events set up - open air cinema, stages and restaurants - all along that stretch of river. Could be nice if you were about in the evening. We pottered about, stopping in a bar for a drink and a sit, before visiting the nearby church, Santa Maria, which has some beautiful mosaic work behind the alter. From there, we headed back to the hotel for a rest before dinner, catching the metro B line from circo massimo. Encountered our first !ertro derlays, however, and had to wait 45 minutes before there was a train we could squeeze into. Technical problems, apparently!

Had a rest at the hotel before heading out for tea. Returned to Meid in Nepols once more, as we enjoyed it before and it's so close. Again, enjoyed it, both of us having pasta this time and we returned to the hotel feeling very full and weary!

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Rome from above at St Peter's basilica

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Having spent so long at the Vatican yesterday we didn't manage to visit St Peter's basilica, so we went today instead. Getting there was nice and straightforward taking much the same route as yesterday. We approached the basilica from via de porta angelica in what is basically a straight line from the station entering piazza San Pietro from the side. We immediately joined the long line that was snaking around two thirds of the perimeter of the piazza to enter the basilica. It didn't take long to get in as it was just a queue to get through security and as such was constantly moving, taking us about 30 minutes in total. 

The first thing we decided to do was visit the cupola. We opted for the lift tickets which you can get for 7 Euros as apposed to the 5 euro tickets where you have to climb an extra 200 steps. After the lift you do have to climb a further 300 steps and as you approach the top of the dome the space gets a bit narrow so not ideal if you're a bit claustrophobic. once at the top the 360 degree view is spectacular, with views as far as the eye can see taking in sights such as the piazza below, the pantheon, castle Sant'Angelo and Vatican city itself including the pope's private residence. We stayed up there for about an hour before heading back down to explore the basilica itself.

The basilica is as breathtaking as the view above containing works of art by Bernini and Michaelangelo to name a couple. We spent quite a while looking at the sculptures and painted domes, spotting some of the completed Bernini statues for which we saw the practice models in the Vatican yesterday. On exiting the basilica we saw a couple of Swiss guards (private guards to the Vatican) in their colourful uniforms. We took some photos around the piazza and then feeling a bit weary headed back to the hotel.

We bought takeaway pizza today from another well reviewed local pizzeria (pizzeria del secolo). The pizza was sold by weight so we chose a few different flavours including potato pizza, fresh tomato basil and mozzarella pizza and game and mushroom pizza, which we ate back at the hotel. At around 8 we headed back out to take a few night time photos, first of the basilica where there were bats flying around and secondly at the colesseo. We had an ice cream from the same gelateria we had visited when at the colesseo on Saturday. Arrived back at Termini around 11 stopped in at the supermarket there for a couple of beers only to find they weren't allowed to sell them after 10pm, never mind. Got back to the hotel just after 11. Last day in Rome tomorrow before we travel to Sorrento!

 

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Visiting the Vatican

Monday, July 27, 2015

We had timed tickets for the Vatican today. We had booked online this time as the last time we were here we queued for about 3 hours before we made it in. We got the Metro from Termini getting off at Ottaviano and then followed the crowds through the maze of people selling tickets and souvenirs to passing tourists. Signs were a little hard to come by but we found the way fairly readily. Arrived to find no queue at all much to our disappointment as everybody seemed to be part of a tour group or pre-booked like us. I was feeling quite warm having worn trousers today having seen the dress code on the Vatican website. As it happened they didn't appear to be enforcing it, but better to be safe than sorry.

  

We didn't opt for audio guides this time deciding to wing it instead. We began by following signs for the short itinerary which lasted about 3 hours taking us through a range of Egyptian and Italian exhibits featuring sculptures, tapestries and rooms decorated with incredibly detailed painted ceilings and mosaic floors. It also included amongst other things, a suite of rooms decorated by Raphaelle and his contemporaries. It was all quite breathtaking, culminating in the Sistine chapel. 

After the initial tour we stopped for a break in the pizzeria before heading out to explore the terrace gardens. One of the gardens featured a rotating sphere within a sphere created by the Italian artist Arnoldo Pomodorowho who has similar pieces in many cities worldwide. From here we went to the picture gallery which thankfully had some air-conditioning and amongst other things featured some nice Bellini statues and a picture by Leonardo da Vinci. We stopped off at the bookshop to buy a guide book before calling it a day and heading back to the hotel. Later in the evening we went to the local restaurant Meid in Napols where we had the nicest meal yet. We highly recommend a visit, its not far from Termini, about a 2 minute walk. Arrived back at the hotel feeling stuffed!

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Walking Tour #2

Sunday, July 26, 2015

So today we decided to have a go at another of the walking tours that we found online. We got up a bit later as breakfast was being served until 10.30. Eventually set off around 11. The starting point for the tour was piazza del quirinale so we decided to walk there from the hotel. On the way we passed the via del quattro fontane which basically was a cross roads with the statues and fountains carved into the corner of each building. Arriving at piazza del quirinale we found out it was the home of the Italian president, and that on Sunday mornings they opened for tours - the only day of the week! Our luck was soon quashed however when we found out you needed to pre-book and there weren't any tickets left. The tours were scheduled to last 2.5 hours however so I'm not sure we were really up for it. 

From there we made our way down to the Trevi fountain which unfortunately was drained and clad in scaffolding for restoration work. We moved on relatively quickly to the next stop on our tour, the Spanish steps. We actually approached from the top which gave a nice view down over the steps and the piazza below. It was hot and sunny again today so we joined the small group of people sitting on the steps - in the shade, watching people in the piazza below. It was very busy with lots of people refilling water bottles in the fountain which we later learned had only recently reopened after restoration work. 

We temporarily abandoned the tour to go and visit the piazza del popolo which was a little further along the via del babuino (home to many designer shops, Chanel, Armani etc). Along the way we bought a slab of potato pizza sold by weight by way of lunch. The piazza del popolo was very quiet but is home to a nice fountain and Egyptian obelisk. We took a few photos before picking up our tour. 

We wandered along some back streets until we reached the mauseleo Augusto, the precursor to castle Sant'Angelo that we had already visited. It was a ruin and surrounded by a tall railing, so not much to see. We also went into the nearby museum ara pacis home to the large arc of peace which was very grand. Feeling tired we headed towards the last stop on the tour which was a piazza designed by Bernini. When we arrived we realised we had already passed through on Monday walking home. We caught the metro back to Termini and went back to the hotel to cool down.

In the evening we went to a nearby pizzeria and followed it up with a gelateria for dessert. Tomorrow we have timed tickets for the Vatican!

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Colosseo, Foro e Palatino

Saturday, July 25, 2015

Today we went to the Colosseum. We had already bought tickets online to avoid the predictable queues. We were a little disappointed when booking to find that there were no tickets left for the underground tour, but hey ho still got tickets for the Colosseum, forum and Palatine hill. After breakfast we decided to walk rather than get the underground. The Colosseum is only two stops from Termini so it was only a 30 minute walk.

On the walk over we stopped to look in Santa Maria Maggiore which was a very grand church. The outside featured a range of statues, clock tower and two domes. Inside there was a spectacular pannelled ceiling and frescoes within the domes. We sat and cooled down taking a break from the heat (31 degrees) outside surrounded by a number of visiting nuns and monks.

We walked on, stopping in San Pietro in Vincoli, a slightly more understated church with frescoed ceiling and dome. Finally a short walk on from here we arrived at the Colosseum. Prebooking the tickets online turned out to be a great idea as the queues were huge. There were a lot of people around trying to sell tours but we headed for the prebooked tickets line and were in pretty quickly. Having visited before, the Colosseum was no less awe inspiring. We spent time admiring the views both into the centre of the amphitheatre and outside to the surrounding landscape. On the second floor we admired the ancient treasures, many of which are over 2000 years old.

Colesseo

Leaving the Colosseum we walked palatine hill to some of the ruins of ancient Rome. The site is vast and steeped in history. We walked around admiring the panoramic views back towards the Colosseum and across Rome. We took lots of photos and then feeling flakey headed off for icecream to a gellateria on the nearby via San Giovanni in Laterano (we think we ate at a restaurant here last time we came in 2007). We decided to head back to the hotel and feeling a little weary opted for the underground buying 100 minute tickets for 1.50 Euros.

Had tea out at a restaurant near the hotel- Mamma Angela's Trattoria it was very nice and I highly recommend it if you're in the vicinity. Called it a night and headed back to the hotel.

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